Chocolate, Old Trucks and Pie Add Fun To Twists East of Campo
With the county home to so many twisting roads, parts of some of the best can make for great San Diego day trips. Such was the case a few weeks back when daylight started to run out in the early stages of a planned east-to-west mountain crossing over state Route 94.
But it was still a great day of spirited driving, old vehicles and great eats. What else is needed?
Wanting to see what a 2007 Infiniti G35 coupe would do on some serious curves, the backcountry mountain segment of Highway 94 was selected not only for its sometimes hair-raising turns and twists, but also for the sites along the way.
First on the list was chocolate shopping at the Wisteria Candy Cottage in Boulevard; a visit to the Motor Transport Museum in Campo because it was Saturday, the only day of the week the museum is open — for sure; the old stone store in Campo; and possibly the train museum.
Further west, if the timing was right, lunch at the Barratt Junction Cafe or Dulzura Cafe, and a pop-in to drool over the restored classic cars and travel trailers at Simpson’s Nursery in Jamul.
It’s been a few years since I took the whole trip and I was looking forward to exercising the Infiniti.
But, after getting a late start, I just made it a loop from Boulevard to Campo, then north on Buckman Springs Road and back to I-8. Disappointed? Not on your life.
The eastern end of Highway 94 is one that I haven’t been able to really enjoy, since it’s usually at the end of the the drive. After passing under the old steel railroad viaduct at Campo Gorge, fatigue usually has set in and I haven’t been able to enjoy the end of the trip.
But those last five or six miles are some of the most challenging driving and most beautiful.
So, the east-to-west trip went on the schedule.
Heading east on I-8, the G35 coupe proved itself to be a fine freeway performer, if a bit noisier than I expected. The 3.5 liter V-6 turning the rear wheels through a six-speed manual transmission gobbled up the mountain grades on the freeway. The 60-mile trip from central San Diego passed in no time.
Exit at Ribbonwood Road, SR-94, then head south to Boulevard. Highway 94 ends in this small mountain town, where the two old main highways to the Imperial Valley once met. U.S. 80, replaced by I-8, and SR-94, which was originally an trail used by the Native Americans, have a long history in linking San Diego to the east. By the 1880s, today’s 94 was a wagon road connecting the small farming communities. The numerical designation came in the early 1930s, with the familiar highway signs in the shape of a miner’s spade marking the route ever since.
I couldn’t pass through Boulevard without making a stop at the Wisteria Candy Cottage, 39961 Old Highway 80, (800) 458-8246. It’s one of those nostalgic roadside attractions that folks think have completely disappeared in Southern California. And the chocolate is great — made right on the site.
Loaded up with supplies, I headed west, making sure I took the left at the fork just past Ribbonwood Road. Although Highway 94 has been improved in places (especially west of Jamul), out here it’s not much more than the old Indian road. It hugs the sides of the hills, leaving the fertile farmland in the valley floor for production. And hug it does. The 13 miles from Boulevard to the Motor Transport Museum in Campo are a lot of fun, but take it easy on the speed.
You’ll want to keep it at or under the speed limit not only because of all the sharp curves (I lost count at a dozen), but so you can enjoy the view. The valley isn’t wide, and the jagged, rocky hills do a lot of protruding into the flat.
The crop out here seems to be mostly horses, although you’ll see a few cows and chickens along the way. It’s dry and windy, cold in the winter and hot in the summer. The area has among the most extreme temperatures in the county.
The Infiniti didn’t disappoint, hugging the road as a sports car should. I didn’t quite get the hang of the six-speed manual, though, and one downshift I ended up in second gear rather than fourth, sending the tachometer spinning wildly.
After passing the Campo Gorge viaduct, the road climbs a bit and twists some more before gliding into the Campo valley. Just after crossing the Imperial Valley Railroad tracks, I pulled into the Motor Transport Museum, a spot where the posh Infiniti really looked out of place.
The grounds of the 1924-vintage feldspar mill are covered with 150 trucks, buses and other old vehicles, a few in really good condition, others in varying degrees of decay. Included in the collection is a Nash Quad, arguably the first commercially successful four-wheel-drive vehicle, and a truck used in the 2004 movie, “The Aviator.”
With the museum open, the volunteers’ latest project, restoration of a 1924-vintage bus on a Cadillac chassis, was available for viewing. On my visit, the restored wooden body was just about ready to be reinstalled onto the pristine-looking chassis. Paint and interior touches are still to be finished, but this rolling bit of history is getting close to test-drive. It once ran the route from the end of the railroad in Lakeside or Foster (now under San Vicente Reservoir) to Julian, and is the second vintage Julian coach that’s been restored at the museum.
The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays; 31949 Highway 94, (619) 478-2492.
It was getting late in the day, so rather than pushing on, a dinner stop was made at the Campo Diner, 1367 Dewey Place, (619) 478-2888, where the fish dinner was good, but the homemade pie was even better. By the way, the address is Dewey Place, but it’s at the corner of Highway 94; you can’t miss it. And while the post office says this is Campo, the locals know this area as Cameron Corners. (Update: I understand the ownership has changed and the pie is gone…)
From there, with the sun starting to set, it was north on Buckman Springs Road and back to I-8. Because of the late start, there just wasn’t time to go by the Gaskill Brothers’ Store or the Pacific Southwest Railroad Museum. Not even time to check out the new tract homes being built way out here.
Buckman Springs Road is mostly straight, but the curves tend to pop up unexpectedly. Watch the area around Mountain Empire High School.
It wasn’t dark yet, so I popped over Old Buckman Springs Drive and Old Highway 80, before joining I-8 at Sunrise Highway.
I didn’t leave San Diego until 2:30 p.m. but still had an afternoon of spirited driving, transportation history and good eats. Now, if I could only get the hang of that six-speed manual transmission…_last]
Directions and Info
- About 30 miles.
- Moderate to difficult, with challenging curves.
- Interstate 8 to Ribbonwood Road/SR-94 exit, about 60 miles east of central San Diego (I-8/I-15 interchange). Go south (right when exiting from eastbound I-8) on Ribbonwood Road.
- Right at Old Highway 80 to Wisteria Candy Cottage. For detour to Wisteria Candy Cottage, turn right; cottage is about a half-mile east.
- Left at Campo Road/SR-94.
- Right at Buckman Springs Road (County highway S1).
- Left at Old Buckman Springs Drive.
- Left at Old Highway 80 (County highway S1).
- Left at Interstate 8 to return to San Diego.